Goodson Gazette

5 Tips for Replacing Valve Seals

1. Use the right tools.
   
   Some people try to use pliers, screwdrivers or some other improvised tool to remove valve seals. This can lead to damaged seals, valve stems, valve guides or even yourself. You’re going to need at least two tools to remove valve seals properly: a spring compressor and a seal removal tool.
   
   
2. Release spring pressure in a controlled manner.
   
   This is where a quality valve spring compressor is essential. You want to release spring pressure gradually to protect the valves, springs, guides and other valvetrain components from dropping into the cylinder or flying all over the shop. This will make it much easier for you to reach in and release the valve seal.
   
   
   
   We recommend a valve seal remover that grips the seal without applying too much pressure which can crush the seal or mar the valve stem. The Goodson VSP-323 Valve Seal Puller has three fingers with tips that act like fingernails to slip under the bottom of the seal to pull it free. It is sized to work within the limits of the bucket bore.
   
   
3. Clean the valve stem and guide before installing a new seal.
   
   Don’t skip this step or you may be replacing your valve seals sooner rather than later. When you clean the valve stem and valve guide before installing a new seal, you’re removing the dirt, oil, debris and general gunk that get in the way of a proper seal. Use a soft rag or shop towel to clean the stem and guide thoroughly before installing the new seal.
   
   
4. Lubricate the seal before installation.
   
   
   You might be tempted to install the new seal dry, but this can cause the seal to tear or crack during installation. It can also create heat and friction during operation. We recommend always using some engine oil or assembly lube to coat the new valve seal before sliding it onto the valve stem and guide.
   
   
5. Align the new seal properly.
   
   
   
   Pay attention to how the new seal sits on the valve stem. It should be firmly seated, but not too tight. Don’t use too much pressure when installing the seal either. This can cause the seal to be crooked, loose or damaged. Align the seal with the groove on the valve stem and use a seal installer to gently tap it into place.

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Measuring Combustion Chamber Volume

The volume of a cylinder head's combustion chamber is an incredibly important spec. Too big, and you are leaving compression on the table. Too small, and you might hurt the engine. Measuring it isn't hard, but you need to follow the right steps in order to get an accurate result.

Goodson teamed up with EngineLabs.com to create this tech article and video.

Read the related article!

Related Products:

• CC Measuring Kit
• 100cc Glass Measuring Buret
• Funnel for CC Measuring Kit
• 100cc Graduated Glass Beaker
• Buret Stand
• Buret Clamp
• Buret Cleaning Brush
• CC-ing Liquid Concentrate

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Reconditioning High Silicon Aluminum Alloy Engine Blocks

One of the most significant features of aluminum die-cast engine blocks is that they don't require steel or cast iron liners in the cylinder bores. Particles of pure silicon, averaging about .001" in diameter are dispersed throughout the engine block. As silicon is very hard, there will be very little wear in the cylinder bores. In fact, as far as pistons and rings are concerned, the cylinder wall IS silicon; the aluminum's function is simply to hold the silicon particles.

Reconditioning Hints

If cylinder bores in these blocks become excessively worn or scored, they can be honed to accept oversize pistons. Unfortunately, the sizing and finishing processes you would normally use leave cylinder wall of silicon and aluminum. The silicon particles no longer protrude from the aluminum.

To achieve the proper surface for compatibility with the rings and pistons you will need to prepare the cylinder bores so the silicon particles protrude. This allows the pistons and rings to only contact silicon. A special conditioning operation is required to remove the aluminum from between the silicon particles.

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Tech Tips for UltraSonic Cleaning

For best results with UltraSonic Cleaning follow these tips:

1. UltraSonic Cleaning is faster with fewer parts in a load
2. Start at the lowest suggested time (see chart below) and add time, if needed, to remove soils.
3. Light soils can use lower tank temperature. Heavy soils require higher temperature. NEVER exceed 160ºF (71.1ºC).
4. Always use the lowest temperature for cleaning as high temperatures can cause etching and discoloration of materials.
5. Most parts can be cleaned with 100% power. Delicate parts, like billet aluminum and soft materials favor 50% ultrasonic power. See chart below.
6. Etching can be seen on aluminum parts. This is caused by hard water, a too-high tank temperature, too long of a cleaning time or too much ultrasonic power.
7. Discoloration of parts can happen on aluminum, copper and brass. Causes include: detergent to water ratio is too low, tank temperature is too high and copper/brass additive is required.
8. Flash Rust appearing on parts. Detergents have rust protection. If you are seeing rust it is most likely caused by the detergent to water ratio being too low and/or the tank temperature is too high.
9. Chalky Residue is likely caused by detergent to water ratio is too high and/or tank temperature is too high. This can also cause flash drying. To fix, rinse the parts.
10. Flash Drying leaves a chalky residue or causes rust. This is likely caused by too much detergent and/or too high a tank temperature.
11. Poor cleaning is caused by hard water, incorrect pH, a low detergent percentage, no agitation, generators not working, tank temperature is too low or the clean time is too short.

**Requires copper or brass additive.

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Seat Counterbore Cutting Options

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Extending Single Piece Resurfacing Wheel Life

The most common cause of failure we hear about in resurfacing wheels is plate separation. To prevent plate separation, we must first know what causes it. So here goes:

1. A warped mounting flange
2. Incomplete cleaning of the mounting flange
3. Weak coolant
4. Improperly mounting the wheel in the machine

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The Flywheel Grinder … your profit pal

As you know the flywheel grinder in your shop should be one of the most profitable machines in your business. With basic skills, training and the following information, just about anyone in the shop can grind a flywheel properly. The set up is simple and the job itself is very fast. In most cases you should be able to average about $100 per hour if you can keep the work coming in from your customers.

Here’s a quick overview of how to set up and use your flywheel grinder.

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Tips for Using CBN Flywheel Grinding Wheels

CBN Flywheel Grinding Wheels are constructed as an aluminum  or graphite substrate and form into a cup (type 11) with CBN (cubic boron nitride) material cemented to the flair.

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Straight Talk About Your Surfacing Machine

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