Goodson Gazette

Posts in the Tech Notes category

Engine Professional Thread Repair Update

The January-March 2018 issue of Engine Professional Magazine from AERA included an excellent article about Thread Repair. If you haven't read it, take some time to do so. You can find it on their website or follow this link

Goodson to the rescue in Engine Professional MagazineThe article includes a section on the Full-Torque spark plug thread repair system, specifically referencing P/N FT-514LTK. Unfortunately, Goodson doesn't carry this product any longer, but it is still available directly from Full-Torque.

It's always great to be mentioned in an Engine Professional but we want you to be able to find the parts you're looking for so head on over to Full Torque and tell 'em Goodson sent you.


Brake Lathe Chatter

Anyone who works on a brake lathe has experienced chatter. It comes with the territory. Today in Tech Notes, we’re going to look at what causes chatter and how to control it.

First, let’s define chatter. According to the Merriam-Webster dictionary, chatter is a verb that means: 

“to vibrate rapidly in cutting, a chattering tool
“to vibrate especially audibly as a consequence of repeated sticking and slipping, chattering brakes”

Check Out Goodson's New HPOG-1000

Getting the Most Out of Your CBN Flywheel Grinding Abrasives

Chris Jensen, Goodson Techxpert™By Chris Jensen, Goodson Techxpert™

We’ve talked about resin and vitrified abrasive flywheel grinding stones quite a bit since they’ve been around forever. CBN flywheel stones are becoming more popular so it’s about time we discuss how to get the best performance out of them.

Let’s start off with some background on CBN abrasives. CBN stands for Cubic Boron Nitride. It is a very hard abrasive. Perhaps the only thing harder than CBN at this time is diamond and there are some diamond flywheel grinding stones on the market now too.

You should consider CBN wheels for a few reasons. First, they hold their balance exceptionally well. They are far less fragile than traditional resin and vitrified wheels. CBN abrasive wheels are best on cast iron flywheel and they give you surface Ra repeatability. Finally, they last longer than resin or vitrified wheels.

There are a few quick guidelines to get the best results from your CBN wheels:

  • Always, always, always use clean grinding coolant.
  • Do not use the dresser attachment on your machine to dress the CBN wheel. Use a dressing stick specifically designed for CBN. The Goodson part number is DS-CBN. We’ll talk a little more about proper dressing technique in a bit.
  • Use plenty of clean coolant when cutting.
  • Do not baby the CBN wheel; it must be worked to perform properly.

Now, let’s dig a little deeper into each of these guidelines.

Goodson Flywheel Grinding Coolant, 1 GallonCoolant

We, of course, recommend our Flywheel Grinding Coolant (FG-1101-G or FG-1102-G). This coolant formula contains a synthetic rust inhibitor and provides the lubrication needed to keep the abrasive cutting well. Don’t be afraid to flood the work piece with coolant; it will keep the stone cutting cleaner and cooler which is essential. A good flow of coolant will also clear away the debris you’re creating as you grind. You can also try directing the coolant under the stone which will force the swarf away from the work piece.

Goodson Universal Coolent MagnetTo keep your coolant clean, we recommend adding a sludge bag (SB-1) to your flywheel grinder. This will keep any minute particles from recirculating through the coolant and affecting the surface finish. You could also install a Universal Coolant Magnet (UCM-348) to trap metal swarf before it gets into the coolant tank. This magnet can be cut or shaped to fit your machine.


For best results, bring the wheel up to speed then hand feed the wheel until it makes contact with the flywheel then feed down .001” to .002” per turn. Maintain a continuous motion – do not wait for the wheel to spark out until the flywheel surface becomes clean. Back off .0008” to .001” and then let the wheel spark out for best finish.

We mentioned before that creating a consistent finish is easier with CBN wheels. This is especially important in high performance work such as top fuel dragsters. Another tip we have for using CBN is to grind flywheels and floaters with coolant and grind discs dry. Yes, it goes against everything we’ve said before, but the top fuel teams that use CBN have proven this method works over and over again.


Goodson's CBN Dressing Stick DS-CBNAs we said before, don’t use the dresser attachment on your flywheel grinder to dress a CBN wheel. When your wheel starts to load up and make noise, it’s time to dress the abrasive. Hold the dressing stick (DS-CBN) at about a 7º back angle to the face (cutting surface) of the CBN wheel for a few seconds while it is turning. This will unload the abrasive so you can continue to cut flywheels.

That covers all of the common questions we get about CBN wheels, but if you have any other questions or comments, don’t hesitate to contact the Goodson Tech Department at 1-800-533-8010 or drop us an email.

Getting a Grip on Dowel Pin Pullers

Getting a Grip on Dowel Pin Pullers

I have a confession to make. I’m addicted to social media. That means I watch a lot of how-to videos on YouTube. Some of them are great, but some of them … not so much. I was watching one the other night when the guy used a pair of vise-grips to pull a dowel pin. I wanted to reach through the screen and rip those pliers out of his hands. Yes, he got the dowel out. But he also crushed it (and not in a good way). Let me be clear, you don’t use vise-grips to pull dowels. You use a dowel puller.

That’s what we’re going to talk about today. Dowel Pin Pullers. What your options are and how to use them.

There are a couple types of Dowel Pin Pullers, both of which incorporate a slide hammer.

Goodson Pin Pal PullerI’ll start with the Goodson Pin Pal Puller since it is the closest in design to vise-grips. Now, before you say I’m contradicting myself, you need to know that these locking pliers have been modified with special, replaceable jaws to stop you from destroying the dowel pins.

Before we look at how to use this tool, let’s talk safety. First of all, always use safety goggles or safety glasses when removing dowels with this or any other impact tool. Second, do not use this tool on hardened dowel pins; you’ll damage the tool. If you’re not sure if the pin is hardened, run a file across the top of the pin. If no metal is removed, don’t use this tool.

To remove dowel pins with the Pin Pal Puller, position the jaws over the pin to be removed and tighten them firmly. Do not over-tighten. You will be embedding the jaws into the pin slightly but you don’t want to crush the pin. Maintaining your grip on the pliers, grasp the slide hammer firmly with your other hand. Be sure your fingers are not between the top of the shaft and the top of the slide hammer (If you’ve ever slammed your finger in a door, you’ll understand why). Using short, fast upward strokes, impact the pin out.

If you plan to reuse the pin, you can file all of the high spots before reinstalling. In some cases, the pin is the same diameter from top to bottom so you can flip it over and reinstall the pin. No one will ever know you pulled the pin.

Goodson's Dowel Pin Puller and ColletsNow let’s move on to the Goodson Dowel Puller. This tool is available as individual pieces or sets. This dowel removal method uses gripping collets and a slide hammer to do its work.

The first step in using this puller is to select the correct size gripping collet. They are available with IDs from .1575” to .8000” so you’re pretty likely to find the size you need. We can’t stress this enough. Too small or too large of a collet won’t grasp the dowel pin sufficiently to work safely.

Proper assembly of the Goodson Dowel Pin PullerTo assemble this tool, you will put the slide hammer (GAO-2) onto the slide shaft (GAO-1), followed by the tightening sleeve (GAO-3). It is essential when installing the tightening sleeve on the shaft that the flared end is toward the collet end of the shaft. Last you will thread the collet onto the shaft as far as it will go.

Place the fully assembled tool over the dowel you want to remove. To lock the collet onto the dowel, grip the slide hammer and strike it against the tightening sleeve, forcing it over the top of collet compressing it tightly on the dowel. When you’re satisfied that the collet is tight on the dowel, use an upward motion with the slide hammer to pull the dowel. Again, be careful of your hand position so you don’t hurt yourself.

Now that the dowel is out, you need to release it from the collet. To do this, place the complete assembly on the removal basin (GAO-21) and sharply strike the top of the shaft with a hammer. This will release the tightening sleeve from the collet allowing you to access the dowel pin. You can now repeat the procedure on the remaining dowels.

For best results regardless of the dowel puller you are using it is important to only remove dowels when they are clean and dry. Oils, lubes, grease, etc. will get in the way of the tool’s operation and should be removed before trying to pull the dowels. Use a grease remover, carb cleaner or the like to remove any grease or oil then compressed air to dry the surface.

As always, if you have any questions about how to remove dowel pins, contact the Goodson Techxperts by email or phone (1-800-533-8010).

Goodson/Vizard ‘HOW TO BUILD HORSEPOWER’ Seminar


Where:-  Vizard personal shop – 109 Mistywood Drive, Mount Holly, NC 28120. (This is just 10 miles west of Charlotte).

When:-Sept 8-9-10 for attendees to the full seminar and Sat 9th at 5:30 for Cam and Flow Bench program presentation.

Cost: For full three day seminar - $500.

For attendees to the Saturday evening:- free but only a limited number can be accommodated. Please call in to reserve a spot. 1-865-850-0666

Seminar highlights:- Erson Cams Dick Boyer will be on hand Friday and Saturday and will be giving a 30 minute ‘how to’ on hybrid SB Chevy/LS builds.

Also on Saturday evening there will be some well-known ProStock Cylinder head experts as well as experts in other areas of power production in the upper echelons of motor sport.

Saturday evening’s presentation will be accompanied with a cookout by three skilled barbecue chefs.

Attendee’s for the full three day seminar will receive a copy of the Torqemaster cam program and the IOP flow bench program. This has a value of not less than $600!

Subject Material: Way more than we have room for here so go to the seminar web-site

What will the two programs do for professional engine building shops?

1ST here is what the ‘TorqueMaster cam selection program will do:-


  • With just 7 inputs (bore, stroke, CR, intake and exhaust valve sizes, rocker ratios and peak power rpm) it will deliver hyper accurate answers for cam LCA, duration of intake & exhaust, cam advance, required minimum valve lifts, idle vacuum, dynamic CR, cranking pressure, torque output, hp output, required cfm of head flow to meet power level, & port cc for best results. NO OTHER PROGRAM ON THE MARKET WILL DELIVER THIS COMPREHENSIVE INFO.
  • Once the cam specs are calculated the user can search a data bank of profiles to select a cam that matches the selection within a degree or so. Currently this selection has a combined flat and roller plus hydraulic and solid selection of OVER 2200 PROFILES. The required profile can be identified in about 30 SECONDS!
  • Unlike cam catalogues the data bank not only delivers the LCA and duration figures you find in a typical cam catalogue but also lobe area in inch/degrees plus (and this is a first) absolute intensity.
  • Again unlike other cam catalogues TorqueMaster will also make a cylinder head recommendation for the most compatible match between cam and heads – in about 30 seconds. But it does not stop there. You can also find the best rockers for the application – also in about 30 seconds and the same goes for the rest of the valve train. After that you can apply ‘Torquemaster to figure the best intake and carb by part number, again in almost no time flat.
  • How effective is TorqueMaster at producing power? Very - those who have tried it so far have seen big gains in power while the cost of the build has decreased but customer value has not.
  • With this program it is possible for the engine shop to sell a cam to a customer who will pay via credit card. The part # then tells which cam company to email the order to. The cam company then drop ships to the customer and bills the engine shop. That’s profit without any human interaction. The engine shop could be selling cams at midnight!


The IOP flow program.


The advantages of IOP over any program available are:-

  • Apart from delivering the port flow numbers (imperial or metric) IOP calculates many other factors including:-
  • Mean port velocity
  • Port flow efficiency
  • Calculated Mach #
  • Expected torque & HP
  • Port energy
  • Specific port energy density
  • Port area at the minimum point
  • Valve area
  • Port to valve area ratio’s (pop-up gives target range)
  • There are numerous pop-up comment boxes that steer the user to the optimum port characteristics. No other program will do this. Follow the recommendations and the user will produce top performing heads without having to make any judgement calls. This is what it takes to turn a beginner into a top pro.


Marvin @ 865-850-0666

Reluctor Ring Removal and Installation

If you deal with late model engines, you, no doubt, have dealt with a Reluctor Ring. So what is a reluctor ring? It's a multi-toothed timing ring press-fit on a crankshaft which works with a magnetic sensor to identify crankshaft position. Quite the mouthful, huh?

There are two common configurations of reluctor rings – 24 tooth and 58 tooth. They are generally two plates that are welded together, though Callies Crankshaft makes single-piece models (available through Goodson). Reluctor Rings are also called tone rings or timing plates.

In this article, we’re going to look at the procedure for removing and installing the reluctor ring using the Goodson Reluctor Ring Jig (RRJ-350).

Let’s start with removal. It’s not as easy as it may sound since there isn’t a key or other registering device. Before beginning removal, make witness marks on both the reluctor wheel and the crankshaft rear flange. Proper position of the wheel is essential.

To avoid bending or distorting the reluctor wheel, DO NOT use a puller when removing the reluctor. We recommend heating the wheel with a torch to about 200ºF. Like all metal, the wheel will expand and you should be able to slip it off easily. Be sure to wear heat resistant gloves.

First, let‘s take a look at the tool and the reluctor ring in a little more detail.

Reluctor Ring Detail

 [powr-photo-gallery id=808e0470_1502290877]

The Reluctor Ring Jig is designed specifically to fit Generation III (LS1 and LS6) and Generation IV (LS2, LS3 and LS7) GM motors. 

Now, let’s get the reluctor wheel installed.

Chamfer the entry edge of the reluctor ring to ease installation. Be sure that you have thoroughly deburred the edges. Any sharp edges may cause the reluctor ring to catch on the casting, making installation impossible.

Heat the reluctor ring to approximately 450ºF (232ºC) using a torch or in your cleaning oven. Line up the 8mm indexing dowel with the 8mm indexing hole and slip the reluctor ring onto the jig. Now, slip the reluctor ring onto the crankshaft. In his Engine Professional article, Mike Mavrigian says, "I heated the the wheel's ID lip with a torch, slipped the wheel onto the Goodson jig, and the wheel slid onto the crank as easily as a rock drops into water."

A couple of final thoughts:

  1. DO NOT try to bang the reluctor ring into place; you'll only end up damaging it and having to start all over.
  2. Cold pressing the ring into place can easily warp it, leaving it useless.

As always, if you have any questions about this or any other technical topic, contact the Goodson Techxperts by phone (800-533-8010) or email.


Decimal Conversion At a Glance

Why hunt for a calculator to convert fractions to decimal and back again when we've done all the work for you?
Goodson Decimal Chart

Crank Polishing Belts Are NOT All The Same

Assortment of Crankshaft Polishing BeltsThe variety of crankshaft polishing belts can seem overwhelming at times. After all, you have straight edged, scalloped edged, premium, micro polishing, fine polishing, super-micro polishing, cork, grit, grain, backing material, bond and the list goes on. 

Today, we're going to explain some of the differences and how to choose the right belt for the crankshaft you're polishing.

Grit : This is probably the element you're the most familiar with. Grit is representative of the size and number of grains per square inch. The higher the number, the finer the abrasive grains and the less material will be removed. 

Grain : Also known as abrasive, this is the type of material the abrasive grains are made of. Most common abrasives are Aluminum-Oxide or Silicon-Carbide. Which one you choose is dependent to what material you are polishing and personal preference. Aluminum-Oxide tends to be more aggressive for use on harder materials while Silicon-Carbide is used on softer materials as it isn't as aggressive.

Backing : The abrasive grains must be bonded onto some sort of backing. It is usually a woven cloth to allow flexibility when polishing. Most Goodson belts have a "J-Weight" backing which means it's about the weight of blue jeans. "J-Weight" = jean weight.

Shape : You can choose from straight-edge or scalloped-edge belts. We recommend using the scalloped-edge belts for radius polishing. The scallop yields into and polishes the radius without the chance of leaving a line on the finished crankshaft.

Now, let's take a quick look at the crankshaft polishing belt options available from Goodson:

Standard Polishing Belts are the backbone of the Goodson product line. These belts are Aluminum-Oxide and are available in 240, 320 and 400 grit. Sizes range from 60" to 91" long and 3/4" to 2" wide. Standard Scalloped-Edge belts are available in 64", 72" and 91" long and 1" wide only in 320 grit.

Goodson Fine Finish Polishing BeltsFine Finish Polishing Belts are a very aggressive belt that many customers call "the blue-backed belt." They are Aluminum-Oxide with a flexible woven back and 2-layer resin bond. These belts are available in 320 and 400 grit; 60" to 91" long and 1" wide.

Goodson Scotch-Brite Style Micro Crankshaft Polishing BeltsNext up are Scotch-Brite Style Micro and Super-Micro Finish Belts. These belts give a non-direction finish and both feature a resin bold. The Micro Finish belts are Aluminum-Oxide while the Super-Micro Finish belts are Silicon-Carbide. Both are available in lengths from 60" to 91" and widths of 3/4" or 1". They're generally used for a final finish.

Goodson Abrasive Cork Super-Fine Finish Crankshaft Polishing BeltsIf you prefer a Satin Finish, try the Goodson Abrasive Cork Super-Fine Finish Belts. These belts won't disturb polished radii. The Silicon-Carbide belts are available from 64" to 91" long and 3/4" or 1" wide.

A few years ago, Goodson added a line of Premium Aluminum-Oxide Crankshaft Polishing Belts. These belts have a very flexible j-weight cloth backing with a high strength joint. They are available in the standard 60" to 91" lengths, 3/4 or 1" wide in 600 and 800 grit for an exceptional finish.

Goodson Premium Ceramic Scalloped Micro Polishing BeltLast but not least is another premium belt available from Goodson - the Premium Ceramic Micro Polishing Belt. This scalloped belt features a structured abrasive specifically designed to be used with polishing rouge (CPR-16). This belt is only available in a 1" width from 60" up to 77" long.

As always, if you have any additional questions about these or any Goodson products, contact the Goodson Techxperts by email or call 1-800-533-8010.

Leveling Your Machinists Level

Calibrating and Maintaining Your Precision Machinists Level
Maintaining the Machinists Level : Replacing the Vial
Maintaining the Machinists Level : Replacing The Vial pt. 2
Maintaining the Machinists Level : Replacing the Vial - 3
Maintaining the Machinists Level : Replacing the Vial - 4
Maintaining Your Machinists Level : Replacing the Vial - 5
Maintaining Your Machinists Level : Replacing the Vial - 6
Maintaining Your Machinists Level : Replacing the Vial - 7
Maintaining Your Machinists Level : Calibrating the Level
Maintaining Your Machinists Level : Calibrating the Level - 2
Maintaining Your Machinists Level : Calibrating the Level - 3
Maintaining Your Machinists Level : Calibrating the Level - 4
Maintaining Your Machinists Level : Calibrating the Level - 6
Maintaining Your Machinists Level : Calibrating the Level - 6
Maintaining Your Machinists Level : Calibrating the Level - 7
Maintaining Your Machinists Level : Calibrating the Level - 8
Maintaining Your Machinists Level : You're Ready to Level Your Work
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